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Trussardi Menswear S/S12

Designer Umit Benan's debut at Trussardi marks a strong entrance, with his first collection effortlessly combining low key elegance and luxe sportswear

This was the first show for Umit Benan, the Parsons graduate who has worked with Marc Jacobs and Rifat Ozbek, designing for Trussardi and he certainly made an entrance. The models arrived to the show in a fleet of individual cars, all tailored to their corresponding look. It was a mixed collection, drawing inspiration from low key elegance and luxe sportswear. The show opened with a younger group of looks, cropped chinos, crisp white t-shirts and open loose jackets. Standing out was an all over print loose fit t-shirt and matching backpack with long leather shorts.

As the show progressed so did the age range of the models, moving into a more sophisticated series. A sharply dressed businessman arrived in a deep blue double breasted suit with ankle cropped trousers, followed by a number of older but still casual looks. Sharp, crisp white, long collar shirts were worn with the sleeves rolled, jackets were open in upbeat summer colours. Another story to the show, and very much to the history of Trussardi was the luggage, which, as with the cars, was teamed to each models style. Large square vintage shapes were seen alongside updated versions of Trussardi classics. New prints and reworked designs were applied throughout, adding a younthful feeling for the brand.