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Costume National Menswear S/S12

Ennio Capasa's new collection offers a subtle nod to 50s rockabilly with an ultra modern twist in soft neutral tones and the odd pop of bright orange providing a relaxed, laid back cool appeal

A slicked back and calmly influenced rockabilly and teddy boy collection makes up the Costume National offering for the coming season. While there is a definite throwback feel to the overall look, the references have been modernised well to bring it up to date. Contrast collars are a common feature and can be seen in both jackets and shirts throughout. Rather than big and bold, they have been pared down and made up in slimline and button down versions. The contrasting is subtle, but still adds in to the 50s rock feel. Fine black and white checks appear across the suits and shirts, again subtly pushing the aesthetic. Alongside this there were also loose and relaxed suits which came up in larger checks and softer greys. Modernising the overall tone of the collection were a number of more forward looking pieces. A cropped double breasted short sleeve blouson in grey poplin immediately modernised things, as did a silk bomber teamed with a suit jacket and shorts. A number of sheer t-shirts and sweatshirts also gave a contemporary twist. Pops of colour were sparingly dropped in, most vibrantly in a full bright orange look, made up of trench, slimline trousers and matching orange and black contrast creepers. A creeper style print also appeared on a number of t-shirts and vests, taking the reference but updating it in a more abstract way.