Pin It
martine rose ss23 beauty
Hair Gary Gill, make-up Marina BelfonrosePhotography Gary Gill

Granny punk at Martine Rose is the standout beauty look from LFW Men’s SS23


TextAlex Peters

In Martine Rose’s lust-fuelled collection, Gary Gill and Marina Belfon Rose went deconstructed 70s punk with the hair and make-up looks

The Vauxhall railway arch that once housed the legendary gay sauna Chariots was the perfect location for Martine Rose to present her new SS23 show. Bubbling with sexual tension, the collection captured the spirit of awkward, lust-fuelled encounters, with clothing that looked like it had been put on in a hurry – think wonky shirt collars, wrinkled crotches and skew-whiff seams. Slinky satin minis and oversized leopard-print shirts enhanced the sensual atmosphere, as did the necklaces strung with keyrings depicting erogenous zones.

The beauty looks were also a bit lived in and messed up, courtesy of hairstylist Gary Gill and make-up artist Marina Belfon-Rose. Striking eyeliner looks were smudged and imperfect, giving the impression of having been hastily thrown on or actively sweated off. Brows were drawn on pencil-thin and hair was mussed and grown out.  

For the beauty, the two longtime Martine Rose collaborators took inspiration from a deconstructed punk aesthetic, tailoring each look to the individual model and the character they were portraying. “The beauty look in terms of the hair was very character-driven which is always such a great thing about Martine’s show,” Gill says. The hair, he says, had a late 70s punk feel with a hint of what was to come in the 80s. “Granny punk, the beginnings of the mullet, mixed with natural textures, raw bleach and grown out DIY colour, provided by Bleach London.”

When it came to the make-up, Belfon-Rose wanted it to look almost as if the models had done it themselves. “The make-up inspiration was very much focused on deconstructed punk from the late 70s,” she says, “appearing to feel somewhat self-applied and lived in.” A variation of different eyeliners, bleaching and recreating brow shapes could be found, all tailored to each individual. 

The looks were created using Kat Von D make-up, while a natural-looking skin was achieved with CeraVe skincare. “It was important to keep the skin looking as natural as possible, using minimal skin make-up,” says Belfon-Rose. “So skin prep was our main focus for this.”

Read Next
Joey Choy make-up shoot
This beauty shoot puts a modern spin on traditional Geisha make-up Photo story
Tattooed sailors
Queer tattoos: the people wearing pride on their sleeves Beauty Feature
glossier kkw
KKW Beauty, Glossier and the beauty vibe shift Beauty Feature
Lucie Rox, WATER••COLOUR [2021]
Crystabel Riley is forging her own green path through the beauty industry Spotlight
AZ3A1415
I had my hair analysed at a salon from the future and it fixed the damage Tried and Tested
thumbnail beauty final (1)
Five rising TikTokers that are transforming the face of beauty online Beauty news
Isamaya
Inside Isamaya Ffrench’s highly anticipated new beauty brand, ISAMAYA Beauty Rising
Rupi Kaur
How to stop period trackers from using your data against you Beauty Feature
Hazel Gaskin x Grace Ellington
These photographs capture the self-expressive power of make-up Photo story
Lauren Wasser
After two amputations, model Lauren Wasser is redefining beauty for herself Beauty Feature
Screenshot 2022-05-30 at 19.25.18
Why is there such a strong link between PCOS and eating disorders? Beauty Feature
1319130
June 2022 horoscope: Gemini season brings hunger for experience and gossip Horoscopes
Julia fox brows
Julia Fox just had her eyebrows bleached off by Pat McGrath Beauty news
271211089_3278294982457051_603799287564057221_n
How Hal Baddie became the alternative face of wellness artist
DSCF6235_VS_R2
Doniella Davy’s make-up brand wants to inject some magic into your everyday Beauty Feature
SKP_BANNER
Join Dazed and Schwarzkopf for a day of hair tutorials, talks, and sessions Beauty news