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Gucci Thomas de Kluyver

Thank god for Gucci and its trowelled-on Cosmogonie make-up

TextEmma Elizabeth Davidson

It is time to take a stand against boring beauty

On Monday night, on a hilltop in the middle of nowhere in the Puglian countryside, Alessandro Michele staged his latest don’t-call-it-a-cruise-show Gucci cruise show. 

The Cosmogonie collection debuted under the light of a brilliant Blood Flower moon was basically Gucci business as usual, as the bombastic Italian designer clashed eras and references with wild abandon – think glittering, red carpet-appropriate gowns finished with kinky latex gloves, Studio 54-esque flippy minis matched with Mary Queen of Scots-esque neck ruffs, Starman-style jumpsuits with coquettish cut-outs, and sparkling sequined sheathes and bodysuits that sat somewhere between discotheque dancefloor and the Knights of the Round Table (but make them fashion).

As ever, though, it was the final flourishes that really sealed the deal: this season in the form of furry, dalmatian-print muffs, heavily jewelled precious metal headpieces, clavicle-grazing chandelier earrings, and wide-open bags that gave an up-close glimpse of the Gucci Beauty bits and pieces inside.

Best of all, however – in my own humble opinion at least – were the wild beauty looks Gucci go-to Thomas de Kluyver turned out on the catwalk, with sparkly teardrops, strawberry tattoo transfers, and big, bold, airbrushed 70s make-up all featuring heavily. Punchy, unnaturally-hued blush was trowelled on – bright and bold from cheeks to temples, while the hair throughout the show was just as extra. Courtesy of high-fashion hair artist Paul Hanlon, buzzcuts with shaved double Gucci Gs mirrored the consellation theme of the season, as supersized Princess Leia buns and 80s, brushed out disco perms finished things off. 

These cake-y faces, heavy with foundation, deeply contoured, unnaturally flushed cheeks, strong metallic eyes and clumpy, spidery lashes felt particularly fresh for the new season. As 174-step skincare routines took off across the course of the last few years, and we began our endless pursuit of the perfectly shiny, dolphin-esque visage, faux freckles, and sun-blushed noses, make-up has gotten pretty boring, no? Sure, some wildly talented people are experimenting with their looks, and shows like Euphoria have gotten people branching out, but even that aesthetic, with its pristine lines and perfectly placed crystals, feels a little bit sanitised. 

With Instagram a homogeneous sea of fresh-faced, Frankie Shop blazer and stone-washed Levi’s 501-wearing influencers, maybe it’s time we start going a bit more rogue with our make-up – taking de Kluyver’s work as a blueprint and experimenting from there. The face is a canvas, and now’s the time to go wild and use it like one. So go ahead and trowel it on – just don’t forget that 174-step skincare routine when it comes to taking it off again, okay?

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