Alien make-up at Rick Owens, supersize lashes at Westwood, crimped pigtails at Watanabe and more
At Rick Owens this season the beauty was not of this world. Under the direction of Sad Salvia, who inspired the looks then executed by Diane Kendal, models were transformed into otherworldly creatures with black-out eyes, protruding foreheads, cheek implants and talons. In his show notes, Owens’ declared body modification the new tattoos. Duffy on hair, meanwhile, created voluminous curls that flowed down the back of half-bald heads.
Bringing a close to the AW19 season in Paris was Nicolas Ghesquière who showed his latest collection for Louis Vuitton at the Louvre (dressed up as the Centre Pompidou). The 80s vibe of the fashion was enhanced by make-up courtesy of Pat McGrath who created a striking new romantic beauty look with heavy blush, red lips and exaggerated cat eyes. Hair by Duffy was well-coiffed when it wasn’t hidden underneath the high-fashion, leather skull caps that the majority of the models walked the runway in.
The future was now this season at Marine Serre. Entitled Radiation - in reference to the end of the world – the brand's AW19 collection was crafted, as always, mostly with recycled and reworked materials. The beauty looks were futuristic and mystic mixing LED lights, facial charms and silver faces by make-up artist Janeen Witherspoon with tousled, natural or slicked back locks by James Pecis.
John Galliano collection for Margiela this season was an antidote to digital overload. With beauty legends Pat McGrath and Eugene Souleiman in charge, models walked the runway with paint streaked hair, feathers (in reference to Swan Lake, of course) and kohl-rimmed eyes.
Dior’s AW19 collection mixed teddy girl aesthetics with debutante style inspired by Princess Margaret in Dior. Alongside slogan tees with Robin Morgan words (So, Rat has been liberated…) bucket hats were in abundance, accessorising every single look that went down the runway which largely obscured hair done by Guido Palau. Meanwhile, creative director of Dior Make-up Peter Philips created a 60s mod-inspired graphic eye with exaggerated Twiggy-esque lashes.
Wigs were out in full force for Comme des Garçons this season, where Rei Kawakubo continued her search for beauty in the darkness. Inspired by the idea of shadows, the structural black hair looks by Julien D'ys varied from model to model and each showcased a unique mood. Makeup, meanwhile, was clean and matte as to balance out the hair.
The McQueen woman this season was tough, rebellious and feminine with brows as strong as she was. Models, including Stella Tennant and Lily Cole, walked the runway with ears full of metal, steel chockers and combat boots. Make-up was fresh by Lucia Pieroni who kept the focus on the brows while under Guido Palau hair was slicked back into long, low ponytails and wrapped in wire.
After staging a political protest in London, the Vivienne Westwood's secondary label designed by her husband showed in Paris. From diamanté headgear to furry fixtures, the brand brought its signature DIY glamour to the beauty looks. Isamaya Ffrench returned to create eye make-up that was striking and unique with supersized metallic lashes and dark eyeliner. Hair by Sam McKnight consisted of pixie-cropped wigs.
Portuguese designer duo Paolo Almeida and Marta Marques presented their second PFW show this season. Bold neon eyes by MAC's Terry Barber were complemented by hair that was at the same time structured and messy courtesy of Ryan Mitchell.
Miu Miu brought whimsical pared-back beauty to their latest show, courtesy of Pat McGrath and Guido Palau. Skin was clean and dewy, whilst the hair was left wispy and sleek on some models, with wild crimped styles on others.
This season, Saint Laurent brought 80s-noir tailoring to the runway with strong shoulder pads which were paired with skirts as short as the heels were high. Make-up by Tom Pecheux was sharp winged liner, while hair courtesy of Duffy was swept to the side, falling across the faces of the models.
The fashion industry gathered together to say goodbye to Karl Lagerfeld, as Chanel presented his last ever collection. Set against a snowy, mountainous backdrop, models walked looking extremely fresh-faced with strong brows and rosy cheeks - sunburnt from the slopes perhaps? Make-up done by Lucia Pica was accompanied by Sam McKnight’s hair which was long, beautiful and pulled back by sparkling hair slides, ribbons and brooches.
Junya Watanabe sent out duos of Harajuku girls this season in matching crimped and curled pig-tailed wigs in varying colours courtesy of Kiyoko Odo. Meanwhile, make-up by Isamaya Ffrench was Barbie pink lipstick and messy, larger than life lashes.