Already hailed as one of the most
promising up-and-coming designers in the world, Alexander Terekhov is
preparing to bring his label Terexov
to New York for a fifth season in September. Driven by the simple
desire to create clothes that make women look elegant and beautiful,
Terekhov is a natural fit in New York with his aesthetic of luxe
minimalism and focus on a precision cut using expensive fabrics.
A
graduate of the Institute of Fashion and Design in Moscow, the
29-year-old designer, who spent some time training at Yves Saint
Laurent, is himself the perfect face for fashion, with his delicately
cut features and slightly dishevelled charm. Terexov is a regular
feature in the pages of Russian Vogue and Harpers Bazaar; however, the
label has its largest client base outside of Russia, with a rapidly
growing following in the USA. It is not difficult to see why Terekhov's
vision appeals to women who have had their tastes shaped by the legacy
of Calvin Klein and Donna Karan. His collection for this autumn
consists of a variety of pared-back, feminine shapes in a dark palette
of black, brown and dove-grey, interspersed with shocks of silver, deep
aubergine and tomato red. Body skimming knits, pleated leather and
flowing silk and chiffon gowns all flatter the body, whether they are
nipped in at the waist or left to their own, fluid devices.
"The cuts are deceptively simple," explains Anna Grigoryeva, 22,
general manager of Terexov and the business mind behind the label's
growing success. "Because we cater for a wider range of body shapes
than most designer labels (sizes 36 – 44), the design of the garment is
actually very technical – it must be able to work in all these sizes."
Grigoryeva has quickly learnt what is required of a collection if it is
to survive showing in New York: "You need to show a sort of stability
over a couple of seasons – maintaining a recognisable aesthetic while
still being innovative is key."
Furthermore, the collection has
to be commercially viable. "As a new label we cannot have multiple
lines, so within a single collection we are dividing it into two parts:
on the more fashion-forward side we have beautiful dresses and other
pieces that are worn by celebrities and are featured in magazines. The
other half of the collection is commercial, wearable, and appeals to a
woman's everyday lifestyle".
So can we expect more of the same next season then? Yes and no, says
Grigoryeva; what is different this season will be the introduction of
bold colour, and prints – something Terekhov has avoided in recent
collections. "We found a cool vintage dress in New York that was
printed with pieces of the map of the world. Using this as inspiration
we had our own design created and printed on silk. It has a sort of
'world peace' feel to it".
