Dazed Digital | S/S 09 Accessories Preview: All That Glitters…
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S/S 09 Accessories Preview: All That Glitters…

In the second part of our Accessories Preview, Dazed Digital profile four of the exciting new generation of jewellery makers, showcasing their new work for S/S 2009 and the inspirations behind them.

Text by Kin Woo   |   Published 31 December 2008

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Arielle De Pinto
Shaking off fusty old-lady preconceptions of crochet, Canadian designer Arielle De Pinto has been utilizing this ancient craft to devastating effect in her delicate entanglements that treats silver and vermeil metals almost as fibres to produce work that’s intricate and tactile at the same time.

Why did you decide to use crochet and what effect were you trying to achieve?
My background is in printmaking, which brought me to get really into fibre work so that I could design patterns and be printing on a larger scale. Immersed in that program at school, I became fixed on all these very basic traditional techniques such as weaving, embroidery, and of course crochet and knitting. One of the reasons I became good with crochet and knitting in particular, is it required very little equipment. I could do it at home, or on public transit. To this day I still make jewellery in the subway, on planes, wherever. I started to integrate metal into my work through general experimentation. I was set on creating a fluid kind of fabric on it. I struggled with it for ages until it started to work for me. I persisted partially because I was so smitten with the texture and weight of what I was making. I am hardly charmed by the tactility of my own work as I once was, but it is amazing to see people's reaction to it upon first touch.

Is jewellery making personal for you?
The act of making anything is very personal, and especially putting it out there for everyone to see, putting dollar value on it, and risking failure. My work is so much about my own labour (or now, the labour of my employees, whom I hold very dear). Without even thinking about jewellery as heirloom, or jewellery as intimate object, every piece has oils from our hands and probably a bunch of skin cells all over it. You cannot get more personal than that.

Tell us about the masks - are they meant to disturb and provoke or challenge ideas of beauty?
For this feature you asked me to include sketches and inspiration, I rarely sketch, I usually just get an idea and go for it and work out patterns afterward, which is why there are so many irregular pieces hanging on the back of my door. Whenever I have scraps I put them towards masks. And those are really where the inspiration for most of my collection comes from. They are not meant to disturb, I have lots of fun making them. Those are the most freestyle pieces, that's what makes them inherently grotesque. They get requested all the time for press but are so rarely used because they never really fit models how one would think they are supposed to. I wouldn't say they are directly meant to challenge ideas of beauty, but I am only inspired by exaggerated facial features when it comes to making them. It is not so much a statement against something as it is a celebration of something else.

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