Dazed Digital | Christian Lacroix: The Non-Fashionista
DazedDigital.com
by Susie Bubble   |   Published 25 July 2008

DD: How do you feel about hauling over fifteen years of Maison Christian Lacroix memories to Arles?  Does the ‘Rencontres d'Arles’ somehow represent a culmination of your work as you said on the website that you felt it was ‘time’ to curate this event?
CL: There is always timing in one's life. I felt that this year, with both my installation/exhibition at the Musée Reattu and the Rencontres, and with both in Arles, it was time for me to go back to my roots as an adult. I loved doing my costume exhibition last year in Moulins, Allier at the Centre National du Costume de Scène, and then the one at the Arts Décoratifs Fashion and Textiles Museum, a kind of rEtrospective celebrating the house’s 20th anniversary.  Both events have been very successful and encouraged me in going further and working beyond fashion. At different stages in your life, you have several 'rendez-vous' with yourself. The Rencontres was the moment.

DD: The main component of the exhibition is centred around the theme of ‘Photographing Clothes’. Do you think there is a perfect way of capturing clothes on film?  Does it exist?  Or is seeing and experiencing the clothes in real life always better?
CL: Olivier Saillard, my friend from the Fashion and Textiles Museum, and I wanted to work in an unexpected way and to show fashion without doing a classic presentation in the present manner. It’s why at Montmajour Abbey, a few kilometres from Arles, I show my favourite past and present fashion pictures through a collection owned by the French state. And at the Hôpital Van Gogh, there is an exhibition showing everything connected with fashion but in an anonymous, unexpected or unknown way : look books, videos, catalogues from the 20s’ until today,  sartorial blogs.  As like any attempt of this kind, I think that the purpose is desperate from the very beginning, since no image or film could be faithful enough to a shop, a fabric, a color, an allure, an attitude, a gesture, flesh, blood and movement. But we do love fashion photographs because they optimize all of this on a bigger scale than life, they go beyond, they help translate, communicate, express the fantasy, the spiritual and  conceptual side of fashion and clothes.

DD: In your statement for the site, you said that you wanted to use this opportunity to look beyond fashion – do you see fashion as something that has depth? How did you look to give fashion ‘depth’ with the exhibition?
CL: Beyond clothes, I see a deeper content in fashion, like an escapism, a way to escape reality, banality and of course death. Under clothes there is flesh and nudity, a soul and a skeleton, everyone is concerned by facing death or dealing with age by searching beauty, sensuality, pleasure.  It’s why I wanted to show identity, presence, absence, uniforms, nudity, fantasy in the guests I invited; Tim Walker, Georges Tony Stoll, Charles Fréger, Paolo Roversi, Achinto Bhadra, Samuel Fosso etc.

DD: Your recent couture A/W 08 collection along with your collections in general defied the current atmosphere of economic recession with an air of excess – do you feel like you have to react to the current tension in the ‘real world’ or do you prefer to ignore this and create a fantasy with fashion?
CL: I like it when fashion - meaning self expression, creativity, spirit -  is stronger than  a crisis. It's not about ignoring the recession, but on the contrary, it’s about reacting against it.  It would be silly if I did not.

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