Satellite Voices

Rome

Delphinarium

October 16

A trip into the kaleidoscopic world of jewellery designer Delfina Delettrez and her surreal work for the likes of Kenzo

• Text by Satellite Voices

Guest Feature by Ilaria Leoni

Delfina Delettrez is probably the most known contemporary young jewellery designer in Italy. Last spring she has a solo exhibition with Pitti Immagine 2012. It was a trip through her imaginative universe, made of fantastic and surrealist iconography melted together with Italian artisanal tradition – which her work, for technical excellence and aesthetic sophistication, is a direct descendant. 

Satellite Voices: A few months ago you presented your collection in Paris and also your work for Kenzo. What inspired these works? 
Delfina Delettrez: Kenzo definitely comes from my attention and fascination with nature but also from my obsession with everything that is artificial. I love contrasts. For the "Metalphysik" collection I've been inspired by the Roman architecture and its ruins. Searching and discovering techniques that are new for me but very traditional, such as marble and micro mosaics, always contaminating them with elements to create apparently nonsensical combinations, almost absurd. Following my personal aesthetic sense.

SV: Your jewellery pieces looks like unique pieces, sometimes amulets, sometimes small sculptures, in which colors and materials create the shape. They seem to be made for women who do not need a gem to "be somebody", but women with great personality, who just need to wear a piece to express their personal mood. What do you think about that?
Delfina Delettrez: I'm definitely attracted to traditional jewellery, and I like to contaminate them with a lot of humor, using acidic colors and crazy visionary elements. I like to wear and see other people wearing small sculptures full of meaning. I like to emphasize the power of amulets, a jewel for me could have an energizing effect, and I consider it an ornament for propitiation through the energy of stones and the strength of metals. In the same way the alchemists and the Egyptians in ancient times did. I admire strong women and my jewellery is definitely designed for them. My jewels cannot go unnoticed and I like to think they can become the topic of a discussion. Wearing a snail – made in silver and stones – that walks on your shoulder surely creates amaze!

SV: How does visual art effect your research?
Delfina Delettrez: Art influences me in its entirety, all my collection and each installation that I create specifically has references to specific artists or art movements I love. "Anatomik" is influenced by Surrealism. In "Metalphysik" there are obvious references to the metaphysics of De Chirirco, as well as the sense of decline of Piranesi. In the "Garden of Delight" there are references to my favorite painting of Flemish painter Hieronymus Bosch, which also gives the title to the collection. I need to contextualize all my works through specific installations that I make and conceive each time differently.

SV: Which contemporary artists do you admire most?
Delfina Delettrez: My latest discovery, as well as my new obsession, are the portraits of Pinar Yolacan.

SV: Very often when I try to reach you, you are on the go. What do you take with yourself when you leave Rome? 
Delfina Delettrez: I always carry in my passport, a four leaf clover and a lock of my daughter's hair in a folded handkerchief.

SV: Finally, are there any secret or semi-secret refuges where you go when you need peace?
Delfina Delettrez: The calm and cool of the churches has always fascinated me, the one of the Frati Cappuccini is definitely my favorite. Very often that is the place where I escape when I need to get my thoughts in order. And what a better city than Rome, where we find one on every corner!