We close with an epic interview with the French fashion visionary. Et Bonne nuit.
Damir Doma & SILENT
In conversation with the iconoclastic, avant-garde Parisian designer
- Text by Satellite Voices
Guest Feature by Richard Bridgman
Satellite Voices met up with Damir in between the opening of his new Paris store and his eagerly anticipated SS13 women’s show. With 10 seasons of menwear and a successful foray into womenswear under his belt, Damir seemed calmer and more confident than ever.
Satellite Voices: You recently opened a flagship store on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. What can we expect from this new space and how does it reflect the essence of your work?
Damir Doma: The project of a new store had been in the pipeline for quite some time, but an amazing opportunity suddenly came up on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. The store is tucked away in a quiet courtyard, which was a real selling point for us. The idea was to create in interior that would go hand in hand with my design aesthetic. I didn’t want something clean and neutral; I was looking to translate the raw sensibility of my clothes into an interior. I decided to work with Rodney Eggleston, who deigned the Aesop stores, as I knew he would bring an unexpected twist to my design identity.
SV: Having made your name in menswear, you have now been designing for women for a couple of seasons. How is designing for women different from designing for men?
Damir Doma: When I do menswear, I am essentially designing for myself, whereas womenswear is rather more abstract. It took me a while to consolidate the identity of the Damir Doma woman, both for myself and for my clients. Funnily enough, when I started menswear, I often looked to womenswear references for inspiration, and now that I’m working on womenswear, I find myself channeling traditional menwear influences, which then feed back into my menswear collection. I guess you might say it’s a twisted loop!
SV: Your Spring/Summer 2013 menswear collection seems somehow lighter and more colourful than past collections. Why the sudden shift in perspective?
Damir Doma: My tenth collection was an opportunity both to celebrate and look back on past designs, while moving into a new direction. I think I was somewhat misunderstood by many critics from the outset, with people reading my work as gothic and dark. I therefore decided it was time to make a style statement using colours, patterns and different combinations. It took me a while to find the confidence and maturity required to play with these different elements.
SV: Why did you decide to create the SILENT and how does this second line fit into the rest of your work?
Damir Doma: The SILENT collection grew from a personal need for more functional clothing. From the very beginning of my label, the overall idea was to create an experience beyond the confines of menswear or womenswear. As more of a modern sportswear / casual collection, SILENT clearly falls with the scope of such an experience. Starting SILENT also coincided with a shift in emphasis in my main line, which became more sophisticated.
SV: What can we expect from Damir Doma over the next few months?
Damir Doma: I think we’ll be reaching a new milestone with the upcoming SS13 womenswear collection. Rather like my early menswear collections, my womenswear aesthetic has evolved considerably over the last few seasons. My design language is becoming more precise, so I think it is going to be a very important season for the Damir Doma woman. We’re also excited about our upcoming eyewear collaboration with Mykita in September and will be organizing a cocktail party in the new store to celebrate, so watch this space!
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