Mary Katrantzou (London, UK)
photos by Panos Davios25-year-old Greek-born designer Mary Katrantzou studied at Rhode Island School of Design before transferring to Central Saint Martin's to complete a BA degree in Textile Design, which she followed with an MA in Fashion-Textiles for Fashion. She opened the Central Saint Martin's A/W 2008 show with a collection that featured trompe'oeil digital prints of oversized jewelry on bonded jersey dresses, creating the illusion of giant neckpieces that would be too heavy to wear. The collection also featured jewelry pieces made out of wood and metal, designed as exact replicas of her prints. Her collection won her Best Graduate at the London Fashion Awards. Equipped with the valuable insight that she gained by working for Sophia Kokosalaki and selling her samples to Bill Blass, she will continue developing her own distinctive style, alongside working on freelance projects. Her strength as a print designer lies in her use of digital printing and her interpretation of colour and symmetry in creating graphic prints with a hyper-realist aesthetic.
Q & A
How long have you been designing?
Hard to say - for the past five years it's become more obsessive though.
I like womenswear prints because even though it is applied design it can be given new life by the "wearer".
What inspires you at the moment?
Constructivism and seventies references. Inspiration came, for example, in the form of a Michael English poster that introduced me to photorealistic art. The plasticity of his designs triggered my interest in objects that have been rendered in a hyper-realist way. In turn, that led to my exploration of trompe l'oeil prints.
Were you interested in fashion when you were growing up?
I was interested in fashion but in a more subversive way.
What was your favourite outfit from your youth?
With all the press interest in your collection, what are your plans now?
I'm now focused on further developing my own work, possibly launching my own label, alongside working on freelance projects. I would also be interested in working for a fashion house that would give me greater insight into the fashion industry.
Can you ever see yourself having your own label?
I'm still considering whether the time is right. If I were offered the support I would go for it.
Being surrounded by people that are inspiring, being given creative authority.
Who are your favourite designers and why?
Alber Elbaz for Lanvin, Karl Lagerfeld, Nicolas Ghesquire/Balenciaga, Sophia Kokosalaki, Azzedine Alaia, Prada, Maison Martin Margiela, YSL - all for their vision of fashion.
Who do you imagine wearing your clothes?
I think my clothes have a certain energy to them, so fashion-conscious women who aren't afraid to make a statement through their clothes - not in a contrived way, though.
Can we buy your collection anywhere at the moment?
Not yet. They can be commissioned, though.
What are your plans for the future?
Maturing as a person and as a designer. Taking the necessary steps in creating my own label.