photography by Ben Lennox, styling by Kim Howells

25-year-old Scot Louise Gray made her London Fashion Week debut at Fashion East in September 2007. Gray's collection comprises a selection of slip dresses available in a playful array of primary colours, festooned with trimmings, textures, tassels and bobbles. Stripes, chains, chain mail, plastic telephone coils, metal fastenings and hooks cover long, short and layered dresses, with a sophisticated use of silk chiffon that makes a quirky contrast to the fun, young collection. Her designs make a statement but are not difficult to wear, walking the line between elegance and practicality. The young designer forages everywhere for inspiration, constantly mixing up colours and textures, and using the bits and bobs that are often associated with making clothes but rarely seen – her silhouettes are Romanesque, almost tribal, and decked in the tools of her trade.

"I think my designs are personal to how I feel about dressing," says Gray. "I try to put things in them that I think are fun, and things that I'm wearing at the time. Pulling lots of elements together to create a look." Having worked with Peter Jensen's team and done embroidery work for Lanvin, the new designer is already a master of her craft. "I am really enjoying planning the next season," enthuses Gray. "I want a whole new feel, as the Fashion East show was a sort of continuation of my graduate collection."