Hans Christian Madsen (London, UK)
Amidst the recent wave of newsworthy graduates coming out of the RCA this year, a strong menswear candidate has been brought to our attention: 25-year-old Hans Christian Madsen. Now based in London, Madsen originally hails from Denmark and takes a refreshing, contemporary angle on experimental knitwear that's inspired by classic US military uniforms. The results are chunky, oversized knitted layers in grey and coal nuances worn over neat tailoring. With such an increase in menswear talent coming out of London in recent years - Kim Jones, Siv Stodal, Carola Euler and Aitor Throrp to name a few - menswear is also where Madsen's enthusiasm lies.
How long have you been designing?
I have always been creative, but I would not say that I started designing before 1999 when I started my foundation course and got the knowledge and history behind design.
What nationality are you?
Menswear is the area where my enthusiasm is - the area where I'm able to express my work.
How would you describe your designs/style?
My style is a mix of underground and innovative knit with inspiration from the Scandinavian kniting-tradition - a combination that creates interesting and audacious designs. My work is not dictated by the industry's conventional idea of who and what fashion is, for me it is important that the values that are a part of my design are understood and appreciated. My final collection from RCA is built around experimental knit in grey/dark nuances. The collection consists of a detailed look, with finely cut, sharp silhouettes. The style is avant garde design for everyday use, a combination of the exclusive and the dark underground. It's the design for the twilight hour: the time between day and night, between a daily routine and the temptations of the night. It's a collection that will give people a better opportunity to dress experimentally and creatively, and in that way create a look as daring and raw as they feel. My collection is a modern approach to the national costume from Greenland with reference points including 1940's military uniforms from the US army. My philosophy is evolution, not revolution. A mix of ordinary clothes with extraordinary pieces -respecting reality.
"Rebel style": 1950's youth culture, the time between the end of World War II and the election of John F. Kennedy. The shift in Hollywood film, the fresh wave of actors: Marlon Brando and James Dean. This new attitude and style: the leather jacket combined with jeans and T-shirt.
Were you interested in fashion when you were growing up?
I have always been facinated what clothes can do to people, and how people express themselves by how they dress.
What was your favourite outfit from your youth?
Black nylon duvet jacket from I was 8 years old -it made me look cool. Then my first pair of Levis, that was a big fashion moment in my life.
With all of the press interest in your collection, what are your plans now?
I do feel that I've got so much more to show - I think I've got a good sense of seeing things that are coming, and I would like to explore/show them, so I would like to continue working on my own collections.
Can you ever see yourself having your own label?
Yes, and after the great feedback that my MA-collection has received, I do feel ready to explore the opportunity to start my own label. I have always been open-minded, curious, forward-thinking and also suspicious - I think they are good skills to start a label with.
Being in a position where I will be able to explore my own design-identity.
Who are your favourite designers and why?
Martin Margiela - the concept behind the collection is a part of the design, and the concept is followed all the way through to the costumer. Nice simple clothes with great details in good materials.
Who do you imagine wearing your clothes?
I have no favourite customer, I can't love one in particular. I work for men in general. I'd like my work to let the person who wears it be whatever he is.
Can we buy your collection anywhere?
The collection is not available for sale.
What are your plans for the future?
Building up my own label.
Where do you see yourself in 10 years time?
I think I have a place in the industry. I have a role, I represent something in fashion, and hopefully in ten years' time I will have created a label that people respect and trust.