Dazed Overdose: Behind the Scenes at Gareth Pugh
Published 29 months ago
Katie Shillingford on why giant Elizabethan neck ruffs are not Eurostar friendly.
- Photography by Katie Shillingford
- Text by Katie Shillingford
24th Sept Wednesday - 27th Sept Saturday
I arrived in Paris on Wednesday ahead of fashion week in preparation
for Gareth Pugh's show, which I style. Gareth, his studio team, myself
and my assistant Nell got the Eurostar at 5am carrying many of the ruff
pieces that were too precious to be sent. After running for the train
and being screamed at by tourists who claimed we had too much luggage
we all collapsed on the train and woke up in Paris!
We went straight to
the studio to start work- unpacking the collection that had been sent
ahead, partly from London and partly from the factory in Italy; and
separating it into the relevant groups - ruffs, vents, eel skin, organza,
nylon pleat, plastic and leather appliqué. We met up with James, our
casting director later and gave him our final wish list for girls we
wanted in the show.
On Thursday we spent the whole day working on
looks- trying everything on our fitting model Alice and eliminating the
pieces we didn't think were strong enough for the show. Meanwhile,
Gareth's studio elves were busy working on the finishing touches to the
collection.
By Friday we had a good idea of the exact looks and the
running order of the show starting with the ruff pieces and finishing
in the geometric leather appliqué group - the entire collection is white
from the front and black from the back including ruffs, leggings,
catsuits, gloves, shoes, jewellery and so on.
At 1pm on Friday our
first girl arrived for her fitting-the lovely Kim Noorda who we
allocated a very sophisticated tropical wool trench and cricket pad
trousers. The fittings went on until 10pm when our last girl, Natalia
Chabanenko was fitted into the armoured ruff outfit (number 3) and her
second outfit of plastic appliqué trench and leggings. I spent the next 2
hours working out a solution to get the Judy Blame jewellery over to
Paris after our first messenger had fallen through. Luckily, Sophy
Robson, our nail technician was getting the first flight
and saved the day! After doing the model board and look cards we finally
went to bed at 4am.
But I think it was worth it, the show went well - all the
models turned up, the hair and make-up looked amazing and no one fell
over! We did miss a look but c'est la vie!