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Ohne Titel S/S 09

Published 30 months ago

Body sculpting and muscle structure gives Ohne Titel a new direction.

At first glance, Ohne Titel S/S 09 collection was a quiet one, some considerable distance from the bold, tribal colour blocking of their debut collection that won them so much praise and magazine editorials. Instead the fireworks were more subtle, with supermodern and technical fabrics and according to Flora Gill, one half of the design duo (the other being Alexa Adams), a look at the “the sculptural form of the body. We were trying to work with the muscles and skeleton of the body.” This manifested itself in Swarovski-encrusted leggings that were like robotic body armour and structured tops that resembled the ribcage.

Initially lauded as heirs to Helmut Lang’s (a mentor) crown for their spare, hard edged suiting, this season saw a softer approach, with suits with transparent insets and also in draped silk. Said Flora, “We wanted to do suiting in a different way.” It ended on a strong note with a spectacular finale of intricate dresses made of braided and knotted chiffon strips which represented another triumph of fabric innovation for the duo.

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