Riccardo Tisci’s latest menswear collection perhaps provided a clue in to what we could expect from the womenswear, a focus on motif then executed at the highest exacting degree to the point where you’re forced to be convinced even if you don’t happen to be fan of literal animalia running rampant on your body. For men, it was rottweilers and tartan. For women, we got panthers, orchids and the occasional saucy appearance of Bettie Page. The panther came roaring and manifested itself on a button down shirt and slim pencil skirt that gradiated in sheerness.
The basic outfit formula here was the pairing of shirt, sweatshirt or bomber jackets over a slim pencil skirt and teetering heels that were embellished only with a thin chain which together formed a contrast of a casual upper half with a seductive bottom one. This was all combined with a texture riot of fur, the addition of sheer organza skirts that flared out over thigh high socks and patent peplums that also matched up with patent bomber jackets. The motifs were first worked as simple panda heads roaring over the body and then wreaths orchids as well as that familiar Tisci love of studs and gold braid ornamentation were also worked into prints and embroidery on knitwear.
On the silk pieces, the print placement method recalled 80s Versace silks. Ultimately though the motifs were sold in to you through Tisci’s way of layering the pieces up in such a way as well as injecting enough sensuality into say a panther covered skirt. You were convinced that it all made sense even if on paper the notion was a mad one.