Lanvin Womenswear A/W11

Alber Elbaz gives us a full progression from darkness to optimism in one collection

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Alber Elbaz’ florid explanations could charm and seduce most women into his clothes. It’s a bonus really that he is so eloquent with his words when his designs have always needed little analysis and are so forthcoming and eager to show beauty. The beginning of this collection might have thrown a few people off guard with the short and loose tailoring that recalled early 90s boxy shapes where lapels and jacket edges were accented with metal frames and rods to create visible structure as well as making pieces hang properly.

With wide-brimmed hats the wool capes and short jackets began to warm up a little bit. Then a black and white rose bloomed to life as a singular motif on a crumpled silk mini dress and we got an ending passage of gazar moulded into airy puffed out dresses looking like volume had been suspended and frozen. The transition from sombre to defiantly optimistic was complete. There were of course the familiar Alber-isms littered into the collection but there were definitely no causes for complaint evident in the applause and it certainly wasn’t just down to the flurry of pink and coral that came bursting forth at the end with the opening passage of tailoring that was also a talking point.

Dazed Digital: Tell us about the progression of the show.
Alber Elbaz:
We started with a square and linear shape, quite minimalist and purist and we ended up with colours, shapes and engineering of silhouette. We started with black and ended with colour. We started with wool and ended in gazar. We started with serious and ended up light and happy. This is life. I started with something a bit more sober, serious and street and then I ended with something more optimistic.

DD: What was the thinking behind the tailored shapes in the beginning?
Alber Elbaz:
Since it was so covered up top, we could afford to have the skirts quite short. These days, when everyone is eating well and excercising, why not show the legs.

DD: Why was there a tree in the background?
Alber Elbaz
: It would be an important thing today to use the tree today to give us some good energy during fashion week!

DD: What was the meaning behind the rose print in the collection?
Alber Elbaz
: Modernity. We asked the question about the rose – is it modern? That’s all I try for – I’m trying my best to see what is relevant for women.

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