It’s testament to Carven’s fairly rapid success that we got an on-schedule presentation in the form of a café-style salon show as well as the fact that they will be opening up a store in Paris soon. Guillaume Henry can now be free to play with the delightfully wearable yet multi-faceted aesthetic, which he has set into motion at this revived Parisian house. There was a seriousness to this season’s collection reflected in the muted palette in khaki, beige and navy, veering into mustard and maroon tartan for a reminder of the slight sense of quirk and individuality in the Carven girl.
Predominantly there was a slightly austere look to the heavy wool jackets and skirts, that had a faux-collegiate style about it that will have girls lusting after wedge loafers produced with Robert Clergerie, coat of arms-inspired jewellery by Les Néréides as well as cable knits paired with that signature super puffed out skater short skirt that Henry has pushed for in the last few seasons. Sure, the clothes have grown up but little hints such as triangular cut-outs at the midriff and crescent-shape peep holes above the breasts suggest there’s still something endearingly flirtatious about Henry’s designs for Carven.
Dazed Digital: What prompted the grown-up mood of the collection?
Guillaume Henry: So far the Carven girl was a little girl and because it was an old brand, we wanted her to grow naturally. For this collection, I wanted her to be – I wouldn’t say mature – but I wanted her to be more self-confident.
DD: You could see that with the coats and the use of fur.
Guillaume Henry: It was a mix of fake and real fur – used in a way to contrast between childlike shapes and the military and more structured shapes.
DD: What was the sort of woman you were thinking of for this season?
Guillaume Henry: I was thinking of Lamilla. Someone involved with economics of politics perhaps as I wanted a girl who’s thinking, who has ideas, not a girl hidden in an office. She’s someone who’s still fresh, spontaneous and definitely deep.
DD: Tells us a little bit about those peek-a-boo cut-outs?
Guillaume Henry: For this season, I was thinking of this super chic girl who may have forgotten her skirt or jumper – like even with a bra she still manages to look covered.