Drawing inspiration from the rhythm of jazz music, Gianfranco Ferre’s designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi presented a very sensual yet structured collection on Friday in Milan. Kept in the shades of nude, black and dove grey, soft leather tops were paired with metallic pencil skirts, while structured double-breasted coats added added polish to the collection’s minimal shirts and pleat-front trousers. But while the silhouette remained long and fitted throughout the show, the texture of the garments appeared pretty varied. Starting out with minimal looks in wool, velour and leather, the show later revealed a series of figure-hugging dresses entirely covered in crystals and precious stones. It was playful take on the architectural tailoring that’s the signature of Ferre and also a nod to a new austere aesthetic – something that’s really inspiring Rimondo and Aquilano right now.
Dazed Digital: It feels like the show marked quite a strong departure from last season.
Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi: We feel like it’s the new era of Gianfranco Ferre. The silhouette is a lot more soft and clean then before. We’re also using more delicate colours such as grey, pale and black, with only small introductions of strong shades such as fuchsia pink. So of course, the sensuality and dramatic cuts that are key to Ferre are still here, but the colour palette has really softened.
DD: Tell us more about the leather you used this time.
Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi: Well, we always use leather because it’s one material that is essential to the philosophy of Ferre. This time, we decided to reinterpret it in ponyskin and a blue hue. A lot of the leathers in the collection are also elasticated so that they feel more comfortable against the skin.
DD: Your favourite outfit from the show?
Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi: The grey jacket and pants. They look quite simple, but are superb!