Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s second collection for Brioni was again a lesson in understated luxury. The Italian designer claims he found that quality in Diana Ross and Florinda Bolkan – two of his current muses. The show featured multiple takes on the label’s signature structured coat, presenting it alongside such city staples as a crocodile leather skirt, silk blouse or a pair of tapered trousers. Black, white and camel were the dominant shades, but there were also accents of fuchsia pink and purple injecting fun into the demure palette. But what really stood out in the show was the eveningwear, such as a simple t-shirt covered entirely with crystals, which appeared in the finale.