Just Cavalli Womenswear A/W11

The last show of Milan Fashion Week was a contradictory collection of bohemian subtlety and over-the-top glamour

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Roberto Cavalli took a demure approach for his Autumn Winter Just Cavalli line, with lady-like tweeds and floor-skimming skirts taking the place of the overt sexuality of past seasons. Taking a bohemian 70s vibe as a departure point, Cavalli has made a collection that is grown-up and highly wearable yet still has that sexy, fun edge. Denim featured heavily with pale and indigo mixed together in ruffled shirts and button down skirts, which were worn with round over-size sunglasses, a reminder that Cavalli still makes clothes for the jet-setter types.

Meanwhile, floral full-length dresses and shirts had a loose fit and were of a muted colour palette of browns, maroons, pinks and creams proving that this was a multi-faceted and, at some points, contradictory collection. Some pieces bordered on dowdy while others were slick and glamorous like a deep purple mini-tunic or the goat fur jackets and capes. Many of the fashion press have expressed disappointment with the collection in comparison with last season, questioning whether box pleats really go with bare midriffs. However this is just a more subtle approach for Autumn/Winter and a camel jumpsuit worn with a shaggy fur coat or a pair of tweed hot pants prove that when it comes to ultra glamour, Cavalli still has that magic touch.

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