Presenting Autumn Winter, Komakino showed the collection in an atmospheric space located just off Leicester Square. A gang of tough looking models stood in the darkened room, squad like in their formation. Lit by subdued deep blue lighting the collection resonated their signatures, parkas, MA.1's, strap detailing, hoods, but also incorporated some newer ideas. Following on from the recent collaboration with Dean Mayo Davies, texts have been worked into various pieces, adding a solidity. Accompanying their darker palette with a flash of colour was a green parachute material bomber and block single stripe detailing on a double breasted full length coat. Wide leg trousers also featured in the collection, a diversion from previous tailored silhouettes.
Dazed Digital: What were your references for the collection this season?
Federico Capalbo: It felt right to move to a tougher, dirtier (for want of using that word) place. Look at the papers - people are speaking up, taking control of their destinies. It will continue. Strip it down. That's what the collection is. Total essence, spirit.
DD: A couple of the pieces featured text. Where did you pull that from?
Federico Capalbo: From our minds, these are our thoughts. All texts are by our friend Dean Mayo Davies.
DD: Why is the use of text important to your garments?
Federico Capalbo: It's another layer of context.
DD: Your silhouette generally maintains a similar feel through the collections, feeling more like an identity or a uniform. How have you evolved the collection for Autumn?
Federico Capalbo: The biggest evolution is the use of army green military parachute for MA-1s.
Get updates direct to your inbox with the Dazed bi-weekly newsletter