As part of the MAN presentations at LFW, the Swedish/Chilean designer brought out silky shirts and loose tops inspired by early 50s-60s Italian films
With a looser, more classic and perhaps slightly older silhouette than the other MAN presentations, Felipe Rojas Llanos showed their collection for Autumn Winter. Open neck lines, draping, a lightness and flow were all inherent in this season for the Chilean designer. Darker colours were interjected with the occasional lighter shades, but blacks and reds were key, accompanied by earthy tones. A sense of sophistication was brought through by their nod to ballet clothing, enhanced by an openness which gave the feeling that the pieces were built to give movability and comfort alongside a chic and elegant feel. With a soundtrack inspired by dance and early 50s and 60s Italian films, the show was overall one that felt grown up while retaining a youthful side.
Dazed Digital: What was the inspiration?
Felipe Rojas Llanos: It was a scene from the Red Shoes that started off the inspiration. We wwe also watching a lot of dance films, so that aspect came through. We are actually often inspired on our collections by film, not intentionally, it just seems to happen that way.
DD: There seemed something almost hard, perhaps melancholic, in there as well?
Felipe Rojas Llanos: I guess there was also struggle in there as well, in ballet the dancers struggle so hard to maintain their perfection. That was part of the mood of the collection.
DD: What about the fabric choices?
Felipe Rojas Llanos: It is something that we always do, incorporating both silk and technical fabrics. Not so that it feels futuristic but modern, up to date. We spend a lot of time doing research on fabrics. A lot of our shapes are from 50s and 60s couture shapes, so we want to modernise that in some way.
DD: Are you interested in contrasts?
Felipe Rojas Llanos: Yes but not in an in your face kind of way. Again, it is not intentional but our signature takes ideas from early Balenciaga, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, so yes we want to respect those ideas but contrast them at the same time. It has to be playful though, and it has to be effortless, not too serious.