Taking her previously shirting led label forwards in strides for Autumn Winter, Martine Rose showed a varied collection that saw her full looks gain confidence to include tailoring and outerwear alongside signature shirts. Beautifully cut pieces with interesting and flattering details such as pleat cuts and panelling were the main stay of the collection, all with a sense of volume and shape. The outerwear pieces were a central element to the show, with a heaviness and body given through her use of thicker fabrics such as underlay coming into play. The second in the trio of MAN presentations, Rose was a fitting midway between the other two labels, in part street style influenced combined with a nod to a more classic silhouette.
Dazed Digital: How have you moved on from last season?
Martine Rose: Things that I thought were quite successful last season, the silhouettes and the length, I wanted to make again and push it further. Another thing was going back to the classic white shirt which had underpinned the last collection. I wanted to do another classic, so this one was the pin stripe shirt. I knew there was going to be a whole lot of crazy going on so I wanted one kind of standard that was quite rooted down.
DD: How did you update the pinstripe?
Martine Rose: Well even though it was my 'classic', I still wanted to play around with it as much as possible. I ended up dong a couple of different versions, one of which was the floor length pin stripe, so I guess not that standard!
DD: Did you have a theme or a general inspiration?
Martine Rose: No not really. It sort of dictates to you in a way. It often happens for me that I design around the soundtrack, that is what gives me the mood or the feeling, but strangely it didn’t happen that way this time.
DD: What were the key pieces for you?
Martine Rose: The underlay pieces were really great, I enjoyed doing that – both the jackets and the jumper. I cant ever remember thinking about them initially but it just kind of found its way in.
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