Oliver Spencer Menswear A/W11

Casual tailoring and donkey jackets in tweed and wool mixed with shearling and camouflage in a collection inspired by Northern Soul

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For his runway debut, Oliver Spencer continued the design aesthetic that he has been pushing since the label's incarnation in 2002. Bur would it be strong enough for a catwalk show? Even though the brand has a very characteristic style, as proven by its consistent love affair with fabrics, a LFW show needs to have a strong enough direction and qualitative design features to stand out among the hectic menswear schedule. At the Mercer Street venue we saw staple Oliver Spencer pieces, such as double breasted jackets in heavy herringbone wool, check suit fabrics and stripey knitwear. Brogue boots and trousers with turn ups added to a tough and harsh feeling atmosphere that highlighted by a British army camouflage pattern on jackets and tops. Spencer's brilliant casually tailored jackets in a canvas fabric - a few with drawstring details in the waist - impressed, as did the pea coats and donkey jackets. But it was the shearling coats that everyone left fantasising about...

Dazed Digital: What was your main source of inspiration?
Oliver Spencer:
It's got a bit of a Northern Soul thing going on. It's a revitalised wardrobe from that era... But it's also a homage to fabrics and there's also a sense of utilitarianism in there...

DD: You mention fabrics, which ones are we talking about?
Oliver Spencer:
Lots of heavy wools and fine cottons, but more than anything it was about tweeds. My Autumn Winter collections always have lots of tweed, while the Spring Summer season gets a bit more technical.

DD: Do you have a favourite piece in the collection?
Oliver Spencer:
The camouflage jacket - that's the Northern Soul references coming through!

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