One of the anticipated shows of the season, Meadham Kirchoff presented their collection to a theatrical soundtrack, incorporating quotes and music from Hitchcock movies. An overbearing and definitely macabre feel was desired by the designers, achieved wholeheartedly both in the stage setting of the runway and the clothes themselves. Rather than models entering one by one, gangs of both boys and girls stormed the catwalk in groups, showing the dark and moody garments. Very much folklore inspired, knit sweaters and jackets hung over smock dresses and loose fit T-shirts.
Underskirts provided body and bounce to the womenswear which also featured shawls, floor length dresses and argyle jumpers. The menswar centred around wool again, jumpers emblazened with flying witches, open heavy knit sports jackets and cuffed, rolled leg trousers or wide leg shorts.
Dazed Digital: What was the inspiration for this collection?
Edward Meadham: For us it is really interesting to come from some sort of subculture and then talk about the bourgeoisie, rather than to keep on talking about our subculture. That was really the starting point and it led on to folklore and ideas surrounding that.
DD: Is there a theme that runs through your collections in general?
Edward Meadham: We are always interested in uniforms. That is our main theme I suppose. The uniform of Chanel has always been a big inspiration, and this season I am completely obsessed by it and it has kind of taken over my brain a bit.
DD: How did that obsession start?
Edward Meadham: I was having a conversation with my friend in Paris about Chanel menswear and he asked me if I would wear a Chanel cardigan? I replied that was all I had ever wanted to wear, and it grew from there.
DD: Can you explain a bit more about this idea of referencing the bourgeoisie?
Edward Meadham: I think it sort of comes from a thought that the bourgeoisie have become interested in, and taken on, subculture for themselves. When you look at designers like Rick Owens for example and the level he has got to, the attention he receives, and who from.
DD: Can you tell me about the fabrics you used?
Edward Meadham: We wanted to keep things quite British if we could. We ended up using a lot of Scottish fabrics and wools. Also we worked with a lot of Scottish craftspeople to create detailing and bring in more traditional fabrics.