Leather, body contoured and fitted dresses with silk and chiffon accents were the mainstay of Marios Schwab's collection for Autumn Winter. Playing with deep reds, black, pink, orange and the ubiquitous nudes, his collection was a tough and austere one. Added leather belting details throughout the line, of almost consistently thigh length dresses, gave the pieces a tough almost biker feel. Contrasting fabrics and shapes were important this season, as with the chiffon and silk against the leather, but also with a few key pieces made up from puffa jacket style materials. These added volume and body, and a bit of fun, to what was quite a serious collection. The hardness of the aesthetic was complemented by pulled in waists, a couple of high necked shirts worn with high waisted skirts and also beading and pearl detailing. Schwab's collection had a coldness to it that made a direct impact and is not for the faint hearted.
Dazed Digital: There was quite a toughness to this collection.
Marios Schwab: Toughness and an uptight feel was where I started really. I was thinking about those upper class women and then the gentlemen that wear only brogues. It is something that I love actually, and at the same time represents something that I am not. I kind of like to take elements away from their original context. In a way it was almost something sarcastic.
DD: What inspired the belting details seen throughout?
Marios Schwab: Because I love the workmen that wear the aprons with the hardware, it reminded me of something very industrial. It adds the edge onto something that is very classic and very feminine. I like the 3D effect you can create with hardware and harnessing like that.
DD: Is that 3D idea where the puffa jackets came from?
Marios Schwab: Perhaps. The puffa is something very utilitarian and I wanted to present it in a more dressy way, something that can feel more feminine. Usually puffa's are very unflattering and always have the wrong volume somehow. By cutting windows into puffa jackets it made them really modern.
DD: To give them a more feminine appeal?
Marios Schwab: Yes but also to flatter the body, to give the pieces a volume and bring it back to a more body conscious feel.
DD: Yes, all of the dresses did seem quite contoured, where did the want to do that stem from?
Marios Schwab: It is the game of layering and transparency. I was reading quite a lot of older texts on the power of beauty and if you contrast that with where we are today they seemed quite strange. Almost alien. I wanted to go back and look at what we used to view as beautiful and update it, bring it forward, for today.
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