Richard Nicoll A/W11

Looking to the 1920s-40s, Nicoll brought out high collared coats and retro cycling wear for unusual textures and shades

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Taking a very different, but equally beautiful, turn from last season, Richard Nicoll brought some big, brash colours, bold shapes, high collars and thigh-high dresses in amongst his signature elegance. While Nicoll's key smart and chic looks were still their in full, with cropped slips dresses in flattering cuts, the designer also brought in a tough and ballsy approach. Sleek knits, inspired by branded cycling wear from the 1930s and 40s were accompanied by high collared coats and jackets in iridescent textures and shades. Strong colours such as acid green and copper red were subdued with softer whites and creams, maintaining the simple but standout silhouette.

Dazed Digital: Can you tell me what your starting point was for the collection?
Richard Nicoll:
I started out with the idea of ease, comfort and freedom and wanted to do a silhouette that was oose and non body conscious. I looked at the 20s and the way woman at that time reworked the shape of the clothes that were being worn. I also took a lot of more masculine elements from my own wardrobe which I then adapted for the show. I think really for me it was about this idea of opulent sportswear.

DD: The collection seems a real departure from last season. Was that something that was intentional?
Richard Nicoll:
I think the last season and the last show actually ended up being really rushed for me as I was working on various projects. I was really happy with how it turned out and we got a great response but ultimately it was more thematic, it had that Bowie element running through it and was almost about characterising. This season is actually about making a really beautiful product. Well that was the aim anyway.

DD: What was the inspiration behind the collars?
Richard Nicoll:
I was looking at that kind of moth and chrysalis idea that accompanied that idea of freedom for me. That where the collars came from, reminiscent of a cocoon almost, along with the wing shirts. A lot of the art deco designers actually used moth and chrysalis motifs in their work.

DD: There was some text across a couple of the pieces as well.
Richard Nicoll:
Yes, they are the latin translations of moth species. I like the almost sickness to the sound of them, they almost seem like diseases in some way and I just used them as a slogan.

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