Presenting his Autumn Winter collection in the disused Aldwych Tube Station, Christopher Raeburn took his trademark reworking of unused and vintage military garments into contemporary outerwear to a new level this season. Moving on from the parka-based silhouettes we have seen previously, Raeburn's new collection features bombers, trench jackets, duffels and padded reversible hoodies. With sustainability at the core of his ideology but design still very much at the centre of his aesthetic, the cut, fit, feel and look of each of the pieces in the collection stood strong as well-made and interesting garments, in their own right.
Dazed Digital: Where did the ideas for this season come from?
Christopher Raeburn: As with all of my collections I wanted there to be a really outdoor feel, but at the same time bring it a bit closer to home and city living. I was also interested in pop art element again as well, with the prints that followed on from the previous spring summer. They were inspired by the camouflage grading used on battleships in the First World War.
DD: You used quite a few different textures this season, moving away from previous collections that have been heavily led by the parachute fabrics.
Christopher Raeburn: We have used cottons, leather elements, rubber, felts and wools alongside the parachute material.
DD: You have taken the shapes forwards as well this season, moving away from the variations on the windcheater and bomber that you have worked with before.
Christopher Raeburn: Yeah, we now have the reversibles, which come in both the windcheater and the bomber, but then also parka's, zipped poncho's, hoodie's, duffel coats and the pop out jacket. That particular one is actually made from a deconstructed Swiss military mac which we then padded out with quilting and has a German issue parka inner.
DD: So you are still keeping the brand sustainable and ethical?
Christopher Raeburn: Yes, that is very much the point for me in some ways. I want the pieces to be really strong but at the same time it is important to do that in a sustainable way. This season we used Danish military trousers, German issue naval jackets and ponchos, military transit blankets and end of roll Melton wool.