True to the brand's aesthteic heritage and sartorial language, Francisco Costa showed a minimal, simple and clean Autumn Winter on Thursday, the last day of New York Fashion Week. Always one to work hard on his cuts and silhouettes, this time around Costa seemed to have prioritised his choice of fabrics. The coats and dresses came in luxurious plush wool fleece, double faced cashmeres, alpaca flannels and soft lambskin all flowed smoothly down the catwalk. The fit was often loos and comfortable with over sized leather parkas and voluminous dresses. Icy shades of white, silver, ivory and light grey added to the cool attitude, and the only real colours to appear was beige and camel.
But when it did show up it did so through gorgeous dresses with leather shoulders and a roll neck over its wool body. Fur gilets and cropped leather jackets had sporty 'baseball jacket collars' and many coats sported zips instead of buttons, which felt very Calvin Klein and in synch with the brand's traditional look. The finale of four metallic jacquard scoop dresses perfectly closed a grand show and the last show of the week, at least for Dazed Digital.
Dazed Digital: What was the main inspiration behind the collection this time?
Francisco Costa: There was a teddy bear feeling in there, fabrics with rich texture that are perfect for the winter. I wanted women to be able to wrap themselves in a luxe mohair, vinyl or punched shearling - feeling warm but still looking good!
DD: Yeah, you always work hard on the cut but this time it really looked like you'd focused on the fabrics...
Francisco Costa: Well it works both ways. The cut was very important but in order for them to say something, the fabrics are very important. They were light and voluminous but really luxurious. A combination of a lot of silks, stretched silk, technical silk...
DD: Is there a stand out piece for you?
Francisco Costa: The first look, the alpaca and cashmere Jacquard coat - it says winter, it has speed and a great shape.