Patrik Ervell Menswear A/W11

Army-inspired outerwear dominated Ervell's NYC marvellous collection before black leather and boiler suits took over

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Patrik Ervell today confirmed his status as one of the hottest menswear designers in New York with his focused Autumn Winter collection on Saturday. In a fully wearable and modern 21st century urban aesthetic, it was a crash course in how to subtly reference military uniforms and army details. Ervell's standard bomber jacket shared the stage with M65 coat and a US Army officer jacket. Slim monochrome tailoring prevailed throughout, some of which came belted. Cropped jackets dominated but Ervell also showed a few coats, one of which was over sized. The final section was characterised by boiler suits and leather, and the final outfit nicely combined the two! Except for a yellow hood underneath a coat, there wasn't much colour. A beige coat and a blue abstract camo print were the two main contrast shades in he midst of Ervell's black and white victory parade.

Dazed Digital: Congratulations, great show. Are you happy?
Patrik Ervell: Yes, I am, for the first time actually...

DD: What was the general idea behind the show?
Patrik Ervell: I collect military garments and I found a night camouflage jump suit from the 1960s. It's completely black, all the hardware is black. That was the starting point, garments that have to perform a specialised function.

DD: So the print was a night camo?
Patrik Ervell: The print was a printed silk, but yeah, it looked a bit camouflage in a way...

DD: Tell me about the cropped grey jacket in wool, also army-inspired?
Patrik Ervell: Yeah, it's a US Army officer jacket from World War II. I do it quite often, I like developing styles that become part of the brand's vocabulary. 

DD: Is there a piece that stands out for you?
Patrik Ervell: The hand printed silk bomber!

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