Tim Hamilton A/W11

The New York-based designer brought out heavy knitwear in impressive shades of burgundy against monochrome structures

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New Yorker Tim Hamilton took over the pent floor at the Standard Hotel for his Thursday evening presentation. Showing a mixture of womenswear and menswear, Hamilton (who earlier in the day had showcased his Redux line) stuck to his characteristic brand of street smart tailoring and comfortable yet edgy casual looks. New to the proceedings, though, was the fiercely abstract print that came out on dresses for the ladies and as tops for the boys. Other than that, the heavy knitwear impressed and the short and boxy silhouette added an interesting sartorial layer. Deeply cut collar less jackets, one in a beautiful wine red shade, broke of a collection otherwise full of monochrome looks. Boots, polo shirts and jeans with turn ups gave the collection a few sub cultural undertones, which were quickly disarmed by a few trousers that were wide and loose down to the knee and skin tight from there on an downwards. The whole presentation was crowned by a few white T-shirts with a young man in a Nazi SS uniform printed on them...

Dazed Digital: What was your starting point for the collection?
Tim Hamilton:
The  main idea came from working with an artist called Ross Bleckner. I had subleased his old studio and let me look through his archives, and I found this intense and almost kaleidoscope floral paintings.

DD: Patterns are kinda new to you though...
Tim Hamilton:
Yeah I have never worked with that before. For the menswear I used it in a subtle way but for womenswear I let the patterns clash.

DD: How did you balance the loud prints and patterns?
Tim Hamilton:
I used hand knits in a modern way instead of using them in a grandma sorta way through square shapes. I also added the important element of tailoring...

DD: There were a few female models wearing menswear...
Tim Hamilton:
Yeah, I used a few friends that aren't models, like Kim Ann Foxman from Hercules and Love Affair and the illustrator Siliva Prada

DD: There was a printed T-shirt in there showing a young man in a SS uniform. Please Explain.
Tim Hamilton:
That's from another artist I've been working with, Collier Schorr. She took these photos that I've been obsessed with for a while. The prints work well on the Japanese jersey.

DD: It's a great photo, but it might just evoke a few strong emotions...
Tim Hamilton:
Yeah, I don't mind. You always have to stay inspired. I wanted to push it, but in the right direction.

DD: Do you have a favourite piece?
Tim Hamilton:
The print pieces in different variations... I like working with different artists all the time, it keeps it fresh...

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