After a total restructuring in 2007, this is the first time that J.Lindeberg have designed a women's collection. Presenting a journey that started in an intimate reception, without a runway or a backstage, head designer Jessy Heuvelink introduced the A/W11 collection available exclusively in Scandinavia, before the next season opens in further countries, starting in the UK. The collection is focused in the needs of a modern woman, made for an active lifestyle easily adapted between the urban and professional. The tailored silhouette is inspired by the military army and cutting edge Japanese fabrics. The colour palette moves in neutral tones to dense, solid blacks and energetic highlights of reds, blue and lime, where the key pieces in this launch collection are the coats in pea, trench, and duffel shapes.
Dazed Digital: What were the new things you've never tried before this collection.
Jessy Heuvelink: It´s the first time we've done a women's collection. It is a whole new thing. During my period working in Paris I just did womenswear. I started with J. Lindeberg with the casual sport collection. I had a background in womenswear, so this was a logical step.
DD:How do you take on a collection regarding women or menswear?
Jessy Heuvelink: It starts the same. We can start out with the same themes, the same moods. The strategy point of every collection is the Scandinavian feeling, it can be inspired by a island, the light, the sea… so we interpret that in a feminine way or a masculine way. For instance, more deeper or dense colours for men or more washed out for women, and so on.
DD: When you arrived at J. Lindeberg, was Joahn Lindeberg still the Creative Director?
Jessy Heuvelink: Yes, he was. In 2007 it was total change, Poventus bought the brand, so the company changed the starting point a creative direction with Pierre Angelo D´Agostino. He created the platform where the women's collection feeds from.
DD: Johan Lindeberg used new faces in the brand from the likes of Dave Gahan , Juliette Lewis , Alisson Moshart or Carl Barat. Does the brand carry on any of this heritage?
Jessy Heuvelink: Now it is a totally different world since we restructured the brand. Before it was always going with the trends, and had a rock and roll edge. Now it is more timeless. We want to create garments for years in your wardrobe that you can use in different situations. It is a shifting point. The brand is moving forward, but what we did in the past brings us where we are today.
DD: Please describe the collection in a couple of words.
Jessy Heuvelink: Femininity, tomboy-ish. We look for tailored femininity and functionality, technical and comfortable but elegant, soft and chic.
DD: What is your view on the current Swedish fashion scene?
Jessy Heuvelink: What is very interesting is that it is a very established industry, and doing very well abroad. Keeping it simple and clean, without adding unnecessary elements. I really enjoy the way how people work here, everybody is involved in the creative process. It is like a big family. It is not about you showing your work but everyday you're learning something with somebody else. It is great to work in this fantastic environment.