Boris Bidjan Saberi Menswear A/W11

The Iranian-German designer showed a collection of durable urban pieces crafted from leather and textiles dyed with pig's blood

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Although his progress from season to season might seem slow to some, Boris Bidjan Saberi is simply not another young fashion designer ready to introduce useless and unsteady changes in his clothing in order to seduce investors. Rather the Iranian-German has become a regular fixture in Paris because of his minimal chord changes. His unabashed devotion for creating garments which take root from his life and his ability to return the oft-forgot sense of durability into artisanal menswear. It has been in doing so that Saberi has become as celebrated for his inventions as he is for his designs.

For this collection, shown in Paris with a host of street kids skateboarding behind the runway, he continued to ensure that every technique and treatment used to transform a pattern into a reality was as perfect as can be: his leather jackets and trousers now boast the strongest method of attaching seams, using strips of home-made fibre glass glue applied under thousands of tonnes, and he has invented three new transparent leathers, some of which can mold themselves directly to their owners' form. 

Dazed Digital: How did you start with this collection? Where did the red come from? Colour is being introduced into your palette.
Boris Bidjan Saberi: It started with the blood when I cut myself and I observed then that blood develops so many different tones in its healing process. I found something of a curiosity of that shade change of red into black, and from then on I could not stop to dye with different types of blood and see how and what works on leather and on fabric. Finally we used pig blood.

DD: And for the colour to shift into to black makes sense for your past work. I was amazed at how fresh the blood on the satchel looked - I could see drops! 
Boris Bidjan Saberi: You have to dye it several times and then it works. also you can make layers with blood and then you can also have the colour scheme between blood red and black. To fix it you can use several things. But finally it was the investigation into the colour scheme and the aspect with layering blood on leather. Then we reproduced this colour scheme with pigments to make it more decent, but leather jackets and shoes work very well with real blood.

DD: Did they act differently?
Boris Bidjan Saberi: They do act a little bit differently. I would like to try human blood but it's a little bit difficult to get. Maybe with my own one.

DD: I'll put it in my will so that if I die you can give it a shot with my body. I'll be immortalised forever in a satchel.
Boris Bidjan Saberi: People always ask me when the human leather jacket is going to come out but it's a little bit complicated. And it's forbidden to use human skin for a garment. Maybe if I reproduce my own skin over years I could make it as my final piece before giving up.

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