During the last ready-to-wear week, Jean-Paul Gaultier presented his last collection for Hermès, leaving the latter to go and focus on his own name. We were curious to discover what would come of his own designs once they had his full attention again. Last night, although the show started practically an hour and a half late, the audience instantaneously forgave him: he put on a spectacle that brought back the very best of the French designer we once knew, all elements he reached fame for as strong as three decades ago. The theme consisted of a theatrical mix between British punk and French can-can, and, as always, a dialogue between history and contemporary codes of rebellion.
Structured like an old school show, the catwalk had no sound but a voice announcing every outfit with a head-to-toe description. Those had witty names such as ‘Toulouse Lautrec’ with direct references to early 20th century, to ‘Punk is not dead’, a couture reinterpretation of his beloved 80s.Much black, sequins, red, lace and satin, with the occasional pink dress: the girls marched down with Mohawks and attitude, and were, for a grand finale, followed by a Can-can dancer. Even Catherine Deneuve and Pedro Almodovar sitting side by side clapped with excitement, as Gaultier successfully redefined his universe in the 21st century.