Yesterday, Givenchy held a private presentation at the Hotel Evreux on Place Vendôme, which felt like the best (and most traditional) way to admire the intricacy of couture pieces. There, over three rooms, bejewelled dresses by Riccardo Tisci, elevated into the air by a floating mannequin or worn by a wandering model were contemplated over a glass of peach nectar. The collection is influenced by Japanese history, and more precisely by the work of Kazuo Ohno, a traditional Butoh dancer. True to Tisci’s touch, the silhouettes interweave both male and female influences, such as large frontal knots alongside geometrical necks and sharp patterns, poking both at women’s kimonos and costumes Gundam fighters.
History and future (or rather, a child’s Sci-Fi fantasy) are also melted into one Post-Modern unity: traditional techniques such as hand sewn crane birds are place alongside geometrical 3D embroidery; organza dresses intermingle with angular sequin appliqués. A similar balance operates in the duality of the colours: eye-grabbing boleros cuts, often reduced to dominant shoulder pads, are made of luminescent orange and pink sequins, arranged to resemble fish scales – these are contrasted with limes, white-pinks and citrus tones on silk, chiffon and organza. A soft warrior, a couture fighter, all interpretations are left to one’s imaginations.