Marred by delays and power cuts, Riccardo Tisci's A/W11 proved to have been worth the wait when the show finally kicked off. The print theme for the collection - visible on shirts, jumpers and T-shirts - was angry and barking rottweiler dogs, teamed up with a plaid. Leather baseball jackets dominated the top silhouette, while skin tight trousers or leather shorts and knee-long leather boots was the eye catching choice for the bottom part. Even though there were clear streetwear references, there were many nods towards pure luxury with brown and black fur, both on jackets both also as rucksacks. More formal coats came in a gorgeous blue, sometimes with attached jackets and gilets as a second layer. Focused on beige, brown, blue and black, this was a stellar Givenchy collection, strong enough to survive the hour and a half delay.
Dazed Digital: What inspired the collection?
Riccardo Tisci: I wanted to do a collection that was dedicated to my childhood and the three things I was obsessed with was the suburban Italian boy who's never travelled abroad, and rottweiler dogs which you could not get hold of in Italy in the 70s, and the American actor Jerry Lewis. The collection was super high ironic chicness.¬†
DD:There was a lot of layering of coats, gilets, jackets
Riccardo Tisci: They're all tromp d'oeil actually. I have been doing that for women's and couture a long time now and I wanted to try it for men's as well. It's all about American 50s and 60s so it's all very technical and elegant at the same time.
DD: Do you have a favourite in the show?
Riccardo Tisci: A guy called Dimitri, he's a Marine soldier I cast in America, and he wore a chain illustration bomber with Bermuda shorts and high boots. The print was a Canadian check with rottweiler¬†... Philip Treacy did the hat!