Kris may have stayed with his grey and black colours, but there was an exciting silhouette in his Autumn Winter collection, shown at Palais de Tokyo. The tailoring was as sharp as usual but there was a casual element added; over sized jumpers, black wide cargo pants and floor length cardigans meant a pleasant sartorial surprise for the audience. A subtle check suit pattern, a generally loose fit and jackets with knitted sleeves continued Van Assche's evolution. A few details, such as flowing lapels, was still well-known territory for the Belgian designer. Often just using white or black collar less shirts underneath his elaborate outerwear, Van Assche created a simple and clean look. The monochrome palette was only broken towards the end by dark camel shade.
Dazed Digital: What was the back drop for the collection? Kris Van Assche: Something very urban, something very cool - how to get the suit cool but in a sporty or grungy way!
DD: There were a lot of over sized garments... Kris Van Assche: The suit feels like such a mature thing so we wanted to loosen it up
DD: And there was a lot of big collars as well.. Kris Van Assche: I wanted a lot of knitwear as well because the idea was to be on the move and being comfortable
DD: What kind of fabrics did you use? Kris Van Assche: Cottons, wool - a lot of masculine fabrics really
DD: Do you have a favourite piece in the collection? Kris Van Assche: The first look I suppose, it was a black suit jacket with a big knitted collar on top.