Exploring a balance between freedom and war, escape and conformity, a looser informality contrasted with military precision - the new Roland Mouret Mr. collection used David Bowie in "Merry Christmas Mr Lawrence" as a starting point of reference. Inspired by a nomadic ideal and the East, the collection focused heavily on outerwear - with coats and jackets to take the wearer from a mild autumn day right through to winter: from a slim-cut cotton trench to a heavy wool Parka coat, with a soft moleskin Crombie in between. Sharp tailoring gave continuity to a far-reaching collection that ranged from a perfectly cut black tuxedo with velvet lapels to a super casual military style all-on-one. The meeting of East and West was present in the mixing of utility cottons and wool knits with fur and velvet, and in the mud-baked detailing which recalled the traditional Chinese textile process. A scarf was printed with the image of a military map found on an old Japanese postcard. Stern colouring in muted khakis, earthy browns and slate grays were subverted by a sly splashing of colour in a bright red tie and a bold pair of orange Oxfords.

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