After last season's ear splittingly loud show, many Rick Owens attendees surely considered to bring earplugs to the Bercy-based A/W11 show. Luckily it wasn't as loud as last time (although it did really add to the amazing show experience) but, of course, it was equally sartorially strong. Centred around black jackets and coats, the silhouette was body tight and, in the midst of leather mini skirts, it featured a few plain and simple pieces straight from the the Rick Owens everyday wardrobe.
This was soon sorted out through fur and suede coats that were either sleeveless or hooded morning jackets. The only proper top visible was a thin grey wool roll neck, the rest of our attention was spent on silver plates attached to coats and jackets with life jacket-like pockets. White silk robes functioned as sleeveless kimonos and padded nylon collars worked wonders for the model’s posture. Everyone left happy.
Dazed Digital: How would you sum up the collection?
Rick Owens: Service! I never really analyse beforehand but now, looking back, I can see what I was thinking. There's almost Priestly and gas station attended looks, and sort of military influences. I like the idea of 'service' and 'responsibility' in fashion, they are positive messages that don't get put out there very often in a fashion context. Service is the opposite of entitlement and think I there's a lot of entitlement in the fashion world and I wanted to propose something different.
DD: There were a few life jacket-like pocket details in there...
Rick Owens: Pockets are a big thing for me, I hate bags. All pockets have to work, they have to be big enough to put a magazine, passport and sandwich in there - super functional!
DD: Was there a bit of silk in there as well?
Rick Owens: All over the place, what are you talking about!? It was my take on Napoleon with the draping and the geometric cuts.
DD: Do you have a favourite piece in the collection?
Rick Owens: The really severe blazers over the dress vests, that's what I would wear...