The eccentric design duo focused on suits and tailoring alongside luxe tracksuits and shearling coats with new details
Dutch design duo Viktor & Rolf opened Paris menswear week with a suit-focused collection, but only after showing a few outfits of pure white clothing; trousers, shirts and even boxer shorts came out in the colour of innocence. Generally speaking, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren's look was smart with a few casual details, such as knitted sleeves on suit jackets, luxe tracksuits, shearling coats with two collars - one of which covers half the face when raised - and tops made out of part suede, part knitwear. The trouser silhouette was slim and the colour palette focused on grey, black and beige, with a few pieces in a contrasting red shade. There were a few sartorial V&R nuggets, such as the cropped evening jacket with elastic waist and the beige cashmere coat with black quilted nylon sleeves.
Dazed Digital: What was the starting point for the collection?
Viktor & Rolf: It's a mix of formal and informal clothing, always with a slight surreal touch, and for this season we were thinking of suits and that on one hand the suit is very iconic for the male wardrobe but it's also nothing more than two garments in the same fabric. We wanted a surreal idea of what a suit really is and that's why we had matching shirts and trousers...
DD: Talking of mixing formal and casual, there was a grey tracksuit in the collection...
Viktor & Rolf: Well, you can see that as well as a modern suit!
DD: Were a few suits made out of knitwear?
Viktor & Rolf: Yes, some of them were knits or its a woven fabric that looks like knitwear.
DD: Do you guys have a favourite piece in the show?
Viktor & Rolf: Too early to tell but for us it's more the whole show that stands out...