Not many designers put on such a show as Frankie Morello. Last season it was a beach party, while this collection was framed by a gang of dancers who competed with the models for the audience’s attention. Luckily (not that the dancers were bad) the clothes managed to put up a proper fight. What impressed this season was Frankie Morello’s way of handling its knitwear in relation to the tailoring. Often knits came under or over suits - sometimes both - and it created a sense of dressed down formality, which is how most people aspire to dress. This, at least, was Frankie Morello’s take on it.
Utility was big; life jackets, cargo pants, protective blankets all went with the theme of survival. Elements of standard Morello humour came through over sized knit pins still stuck in cardigans and scarfs. Still, it was the ethnic knitwear and check suits that impressed the most in show that both entertained and delivered a message of endurance.
Dazed Digital: What brought on this collection?
Frankie Morello: The idea was that a disaster hit us, it’s about survival of mankind, but also the importance of culture.
DD: Is that where the dancers came in?
Frankie Morello: It is a form of communication... we are dancers, we are architects, we are designers... It’s about our DNA and about creating something!
DD: The knitwear seemed almost Inca inspired...
Frankie Morello: Yeah, it was perhaps South American, but also influenced by carpets and blankets.
DD: Tell me about the ripped suit shoulders...
Frankie Morello: That’s the day after the disaster, that’s why the jackets were ripped!
DD: Do you have a favourite piece?
Frankie Morello: The knitwear poncho blankets...