We speak to DSM's Adrian Joffe as the Comme des Garçons store re-opens after its in-store face lift
Most stores, eager to increase retail profits, end up selling both the sales clothes and new collections at the same time at one point. And why not? If you have the Spring Summer 2011 fashion in, why not whack it on the floor and show off the colourful and summery clothes? In a time when the commercial side to fashion is one of the most prominent ones, it's not only refreshing but also crucial to have such a princaipally steadfast store as Dover Street Market.
During its biannula Tachiagari, the Comme des Garçons-run store closes down DSM and re-open the space after a few days with brand new collections, new designer spaces, and especially curated shops-in-shops. Under the strict supervision of Comme's husband and wife head honchos, Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe, the store is not only in- bloom in charteristic CdG gear but also provides other brands and designers with a peaceful retail heaven to flourish in. As the store opens it newly Tachiagari-ed doors today, we spoke to Joffe about the procedure.
Dazed Digital: What does Tachiagari mean?
Adrian Joffe: 'Beginning'/'start' in Japanese
DD: What were the main themes or idea behind this season's change?
Adrian Joffe: The changes at Tachiagari are pretty themeless. They are more organic in nature. We feel like changing this, we invite a new brand to come in, some existing brand wants to renovate, some other corner falls apart and we need to re-do it, that kind of thing. This season we are thrilled to finally get the egg space by Maureen Doherty. We've been trying to get egg at DSM since day one.
We have a beautiful and moving temporary new space cum memorial to the great Christopher Nemeth, we have a new Sneaker Space designed by Michael Samuels, and a renovated 'Cabaret' space called 'Industrial Cabaret' by Michael Howells. We also have new spaces by the regulars from Michael Costiff to Alber Elbaz, and a whole new corner in the Second Floor, designed by Kawakubo for what we call the new ‘drapey’ collections”. Finally the window is filled with Paco Rabanne, with the exclusive launch of the iconic 'le 69' bag...
DD: Why do you feel the need to close the shop and radically change DSM every season?
Adrian Joffe: It's just the way it has always been and was the idea since the beginning, constantly evolving. There are changes throughout the year, we just try to concentrate a lot of them at the start of new season so we can give everyone who comes free drinks and cakes.
DD: Are you and Rei very much part of the process or do you bring in a 'guest creator'?
Adrian Joffe: Rei is involved with everything on a visual level, and then the rest is done by myself and Dickon and all the DSM team.
DD: Have you brought in any new labels for this season?
Adrian Joffe: Yes many; Burkaman Bros, Drug Money, Indivudual Sentiments, Mighty Mac, Nanamica, Silent, Chloe Sevigny, Creatures of the Wild, Elena Dawson, Gary Graham, Hakaan, JS Lee, Rodarte X Opening Ceremony, Prabal Gurung, Sophie Hulme, Egg, Paco Rabanne bags, Haider Ackerman Mens, Diane de Maria, Want Les Essentielle de la Vie, Anniel, Bernardo Vintage, Guidi Womens and Alejandro Ingelmo...
DD: What was the idea behind DSM's own label and how does it channel Dover Street Market and compare to Comme?
Adrian Joffe: No big idea really.. we are just experimenting with an "own" label. We've still to find our way, but slowly slowly... there seems to be a bit of a demand...