After working with Juun J at his last show, the jewellery designer speaks to us about his first apparel collection
After his last season's dark and gothic jewels showcased at Juun J’s Paris show, Heaven Tanudiredja takes the opposite of what he has ever done before - working with fresher looks in pastel colours and transparent pieces contrasting with warm and electric colours. Long under Dazed's eye having worked at Galiano and Dries Van Noten, Tanudiredja still is the same guy who lives and works in Antwerp who surprises us everytime with his craft and passion for detail. We talk to him about the video presentation of his new 2011 Spring/Summer Collection and his future clothing line.
Dazed Digital: What the concept behind the video?
Heaven Tanudiredja: We're actually still in the moment of introducing the jewels to the client. And for this video we didn’t want drama, just a clear focus on the jewels. To view the jewels on the body, to see the movement and to view from every angle and close up. To show how the jewels have been constructed. And at the same time I want to have the feeling of freshness, a clear sense of the new beginning of something. Zeb Daemen and Sverre Denis made the video as straight forward as possible.
DD: Tell us about your new collection.
Heaven Tanudiredja: I want to have fresh colours for Spring / Summer 2011. We worked a lot with transparent crystal, a lot of white mixed with smokey mint green, light lavender, dark green jade, baby blue, combined with electric orange, purple. For the texture we looked to caterpillars and their shape and movements. So from that we try to manipulate the element into that texture and movement. It was fun, because normally I don’t like to work with light colour. It's always interesting to work on something that you don’t like and turning it into something that you do like at the end.
DD: Which kind of jewellery do you own?
Heaven Tanudiredja: I don’t wear jewellery or watches. It's simply because I work in atelier and it's not so practical to wear jewels. But I do love 19th century antique jewels and 1930s jewels. If I had the budget I would love to collect them one day. At the moment I'm collecting pictures of the antique jewels. I look at antique jewellery stores constantly in Paris, Milan, Florence or Sotheby’s, and here in some small antique diamond shops in Antwerp. I love beautiful watches too, especially the inside work. It's magnificent.
DD: When can we expect for a clothes line by you?
Heaven Tanudiredja: Well let’s see later. Because I’m still trying to make the jewels work first. To get the right rhythm from one season to another season. Meanwhile I’m still working on business plan and the financial plan for the clothes, which drives me crazy for the moment to see so many numbers.
DD: Are you planning more collaborations like the one you did last season with Juun J?
Heaven Tanudiredja: Yeah definitely. I think is always fun to do collaboration with other designer. To see and to hear their point of view, to balance the design. Really educate my point of view.
DD: Where can we buy your collection?
Heaven Tanudiredja: In addition to Barneys NY, Liberty London, Blake, Holt Renfrew, Boon the Shop, WIP Visionaire, Maxfield etc, for next season we will start with Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Club 21 Singapore, 10 Corso Como Milan, Zekka and Ricarda in Australia and some others.
Video by Zeb Daemen and Sverre Denis