Stefano Pilato decided to revisit, retread, as well as reinvigorate
Collections have mostly been reconciling themselves with ideas that aren't out to be groundbreaking or ultra directional this season. It may be the mood of a spring summer season, which sees people easing or falling back onto surefire winners and in that respect Stefano Pilati fell in line by wholeheartedly throwing himself at the cornerstones of Yves Saint Laurent's legacy - the trench, the shirt, the gypsy dress, the jumpsuit as well as colour combinations that are signature YSL. Pilati turned these heritage pieces out with ease and with a slight undertone of provocation as the cut-outs at the side and shoulders of these classics were Pilati's own form of both spicing and splicing it up. Graphic details such as a black trimmed patch pocket on a white A-line skirt was also a Pilati statement. The press notes referenced a "new tribe of modern women" and judging by this collection perhaps the tastes are not so far removed from the original tribe (thanks to fashion's cyclical cycle) as a bright orange dolman sleeved blouse with a low v-neck, a sleek low-cut navy jumpsuit or any one of the dresses adorned with a clean and brightly coloured ruffle at the bust and hem are all welcome additions right now. This obviously demonstrates Yves Saint Laurent's design endurance but to Pilati's credit, his extra sharpness and the jarring hints that he works into the collection (best seen in the angular wedge sandals and the standout maribou skirt and jacket) make this revival a convincing one.