Loewe Womenswear S/S11

A reaction to sobriety took the Loewe leather look through a colourful stretch

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Everyone is having a go at reacting to the sombre mood of last season in their own way and Stuart Vevers wasn't going to be one to miss out on the action. It centred around a palette that was both pastel and bright at the same time, likes colours of a pick n' mix. With the language of fine quality, Loewe showed nappa leather, little shift and mod-like dresses, skirts and tops popped with orange, pink and yellow, embellished with leather flowers and clusters of pailettes. Loewe's print archive provided flashes of butterflies and leaves falling on silk satin shirts with ruffle fronted skirts. The Loewe 'oro' (gold) was updated in a luxurious suede and contrasted with trims of the poppy palette. Accessories, another mainstay of Loewe, were made into boxy bags that needed to be jauntily swung around, again sticking to the poppy colours that punctuate the collection. A vibrant brown leopard print seeped into the collection onto a pea coat and a matching bag that reminded us that whilst it's all fun and games this season, the Loewe woman is still very much about being pulled together, swathed in the finest of materials.

Dazed Digital: Quite a change from last season then!
Stuart Vevers:
I guess it was quite a sombre moment last season - very sophisticated and sometimes you just react to that. I just wanted joy, energy, colour and fun. I still wanted it to feel grown-up but I wanted it to feel like spring and for it to be joyful. 

DD: What were the motifs that you played with in the collection?
Stuart Vevers:
When we decided we wanted lots of colour, we turned to print. We started looking at the archive of Loewe silk - after leather, scarves are Loewe's biggest thing, they have 4,000 silk scarves. A recurring theme of the scarves were butterflies. I asked why and it's because there's a really amazing natural history museum in Madrid where they keep a lot of the species and drawings. So we worked with a Spanish artist called Jose Hernandez who did a lot of the prints and played with them with the graphic electric colours. We played that with the electric colours.

DD: There's a slightly 60s modish feel to the shapes - was that what you were going for?
Stuart Vevers: We try not to reference any particular decade. There's a simplicity in the silhouette and lots of artisinal leather elements. 

DD: With leather being so important to Loewe, what did you experiment with this time?
Stuart Vevers: We're playing with new techniques such as mixing fabric and leather. There's a signature colour AT Loewe - called 'oro' - it was launched in the 70s and we have updated it and we played with it season and colour blocked it with the pastels.

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