A sulpherous burning and bright yellow, which dominated the show set the blazing tone for Damir Doma's serene S/S 11 collection which he declares on the press release to be one that "frees her from the mould (the rib of the man)". The androgyny of last season softens further into a raw elegance where surprisingly, the waist becomes the focal point with wide wrap leather belts and a delicate feminity is worked into sheer mesh trails peeking out from short pelmet skirts and demure shift dresses. The Far Eastern influence seen in the colour palette can also be traced from the high kimono trousers, robes as well as in the consideration for fabrics. This exercise in purity still says that Doma is keen to make his womenswear distinctive from his acclaimed menswear offerings and with his latest nomination in the Swiss Textile Awards, it will be intersting to see him put the two together in cohesion.
Dazed Digital: It felt like a very rigorous excercise in purism - was it a continuation from last season?
Damir Doma: My last season was my fast and I'm someone who always wants to improve and develop. You're right, it was about purity this season and it was much more feminism which is why we focused on the waist area (with the belts). There was also a spirituality to this collection that came from the Far East.
DD: What other references did you draw from in addition to the Far East Asian
Damir Doma: The colours came from those Asian cultures. I really liked the mixing of cultures in this collection - for instance the bracelets referenced more African cultures.
DD: Do you still want to keep your menswear and womenswear collections quite separate?
Damir Doma: I think that's my goal really, to develop both collections and to give them their own identities. They do have to work at a certain point together though - I'm looking forward to the Swiss Textiles Award where I have to present both so it will be interesting to see how they work together there.
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