Saying that the whole audience left in silence would be an understatement when describing the appeal of Jil Sander’s show on Saturday. The collection, which revolved around some of Raf Simons' signatures for the brand – simplicity, masculine shapes and technical fabrics – was yet another take on minimalism, but the long voluminous silhouette and clashing colour combinations made it feel very new. There was a sporty feel to the long parkas and hooded jackets, which were offset by elegant peplum skirts and pleated trousers. A series of long techno taffeta skirts paired with t-shirts opened the show, establishing neon orange, purple and pink as the collection’s dominating shades. The music – a combination of Alfred Hitchcock’s “Psycho” soundtrack and Busta Rhymes – added up to Simons’s austere yet couture-like vision.
Dazed Digital: Could you tell us a bit more about your inspiration?
Raf Simons: What started me thinking about this collection was the ongoing discussion about new minimalism. I sat down with my team and thought: why not do the opposite? So we decide to focus on “maximalism”. That later brought us to couture. I guess I’ve always been interested in couture and what it means to society. At the same time, I didn’t want to have the excess of couture, because it wouldn’t suit the line.
DD: So did you implement the couture influences on the RTW collection?
Raf Simons: I focused on its form language – the lenghts, the proportions. I also wanted to combine it with a street element, so I paired the skirts with the simple parkas and t-shirts.
DD: Where did the Hitchcock reference come from?
Raf Simons: I used a lot of nylons and bright colours in the collection, but I still wanted my woman to look quite stern. I love the women in Hitchcock movies, because they’re just that.