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Gianfranco Ferre Womenswear S/S11

Sharp tailoring and woven leather distinguished Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano's latest collection

PhotographyMorgan O'Donovan

A label renown for its architectural shapes, Gianfranco Ferre is currently enduring a style transformation with a help of two talented designers – Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano. For spring/summer 11, they looked to the rhythm of jazz music to find their inspiration. Knitted bodycon dresses were shown along sharp suits and plenty of woven leather. A beaded flapper dress – an influence of jazz songstress Ella Fitzgerald – added a colourful punch to the collection, injecting accents of green and fuchsia pink into Ferre’s traditional black and white palette.


Dazed Digital: Where did the jazz inspiration come from?

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi: When you listen to jazz or any other sensual music, you can hear very high notes. We wanted to translate those notes into clothing. Another inspiration was the personal style of musician Ella Fitzgerald, who would wear a very simple skirt, but it would be completely covered with pailettes!


DD: You used a lot of manipulated leather.

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi: We used a lot of python leathers and cut them into thin strips to create patterns. There is something about a leather dress that’s very tough and feminine at the same time.


DD: What’s your favourite piece from the show?

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi: The fuchsia t-shirt with pailettes.