“A return to seduction” is how Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini describes her collection for spring/summer. Along that note, the show opened with a cavalcade of draped silk dresses, tulip skirts and harem trousers – all reminiscent of the bygone disco era and kept in the brightest shades of blue, orange and green. What followed was a perhaps more ethnic take on the designer’s favourite 1970s theme, with safari jackets paired with silk peg leg trousers, and leather fringes hanging loose or creating an intricate pattern of a fitted dress. There was a touch of Byzantine decadence to the collection’s tassels, feathers and coloured beads, which – upon close inspection – hinted at Giannini’s latest inspiration: Marrakesh.
Dazed Digital: Can you tell us more about this season’s inspiration?
Frida Giannini: The first inspiration was Marrakesh. I fell in love with their jewellery and silver while shooting our campaign there. Later came the 1970s fashion photography – mainly people like David Bailey and obviously Guy Bourdin. It was the deep reds and greens in Bourdins pictures that probably influenced most of the collection’s palette.
DD: There were a lot of leather and suede fringes in the show...
Frida Giannini: There’s definitely an ethnic element to all our embroidery and fringing. I really wanted to use fringes, but didn’t want to present them in a typical way. That’s why some of them were sewn together and others were left to hang free. I didn’t want to use any print in the collection, so having different textures was very important for me.
DD: Last season was all about muted shades and minimalism. This season seems a lot more flamboyant. What has changed for the Gucci girl?
Frida Giannini: Winter was about heritage and craftsmanship. Summer is more about having fun. It’s still the same Gucci girl, but this time, she’s back from a holiday. I guess she’s more happy now!